By The Table desk · Last verified 4 October 2026
Peranakan food, also called Nyonya cuisine, is the home cooking of the Straits Chinese: mainly Hokkien cooking methods married to Malay ingredients and spices, with Indian, Thai and colonial touches. It is built on rempah, a pounded spice paste, plus coconut milk, tamarind, belacan and gula melaka. The dishes to know are ayam buah keluak (chicken with black keluak nuts), babi pongteh (pork braised with fermented soya bean paste), itek tim (duck and salted vegetable soup), chap chye, kueh pie tee, laksa lemak and colourful Nyonya kueh. Many dishes use pork, so it is generally not halal.
It is food made slowly, by families, for people they love. Ordering it well is mostly about balance: something rich, something gentle and something sweet.
Quick facts
- Who: descendants of early Chinese traders who settled in the Malay world and married local women.
- Flavour: aromatic, spicy, often sour and rich at once; rempah is the base of most dishes.
- Signature ingredient: buah keluak, a black nut that is poisonous raw and must be processed, traditionally by burying it in ash for weeks.
- Pork is common: babi pongteh, ngoh hiang and chap chye often contain it.
- Festive food: many dishes are cooked at home especially for Chinese New Year and family celebrations.
- Recognition: Candlenut became the first Peranakan restaurant to win a Michelin star, in 2016.
The dishes, in plain words
| Dish | What it is | Taste | Good for |
|---|---|---|---|
| Ayam buah keluak | Chicken braised in a thick, spicy tamarind gravy with keluak nuts; you scoop out the black nut paste | Earthy, smoky, a little bitter, deeply savoury | The adventurous; the classic test of a Peranakan kitchen |
| Babi pongteh | Pork belly stewed with fermented soya bean paste, often with mushrooms and potato | Sweet-salty, mellow, not spicy | Children and spice-shy diners |
| Itek tim | Clear soup of duck, salted mustard greens and tomato, often with sour plums | Light, sour, comforting | Balancing a rich meal |
| Chap chye | Braised cabbage with glass noodles, black fungus and lily buds, often with pork stock | Mild, savoury | Everyone; the everyday vegetable dish |
| Kueh pie tee | Crisp “top hat” pastry cups filled with braised turnip and topped with prawn | Crunchy, sweet, fresh | Starters and sharing |
| Ngoh hiang | Five-spice meat and prawn rolls wrapped in beancurd skin and fried | Fragrant, crisp | A safe starter |
| Laksa lemak | Rice noodles in a coconut curry soup with prawns, fishcake and cockles | Rich, spicy, creamy | A one-bowl lunch |
| Nyonya kueh | Steamed or baked cakes of rice flour, coconut, pandan and gula melaka, such as kueh salat, ondeh-ondeh and kueh lapis | Sweet, soft, fragrant | Dessert or tea time |
What should I order first?
Peranakan meals are shared, with rice in the middle. For two to four people, build the table in layers rather than ordering three curries.
- Start crisp: kueh pie tee or ngoh hiang while you wait.
- Pick one rich dish: ayam buah keluak if you are curious, babi pongteh if you prefer gentle.
- Add one sour or soupy dish: itek tim, or a tamarind fish such as assam fish, to cut the richness.
- Add one vegetable: chap chye, or a sambal-fried vegetable if you like heat.
- Ask for sambal belacan on the side so each person controls the spice.
- Finish with kueh or a cendol, and order plain rice for everyone.
Worked example: a table of three might share kueh pie tee, ayam buah keluak, itek tim and chap chye, with rice and a plate of kueh. That is one crisp, one rich, one sour and one mild dish, which is how a Nyonya home cook would balance it.
How do I eat buah keluak?
The nut arrives whole in the gravy, with a cracked opening. Use a small spoon or the pick provided to scrape out the dark, paste-like flesh and mix it into your rice with the gravy. The taste is often compared to dark chocolate or truffle, and the chef Violet Oon has called it the “black diamond” of Peranakan cooking. If the first nut tastes too bitter, try another; quality varies from nut to nut.
The WahLiao Verdict
For a first Peranakan meal, order one rich dish, one sour soup, one vegetable and kueh, and let the sambal sit on the side. Try ayam buah keluak at least once, because nothing else tastes like it, but balance it with itek tim so the meal stays bright. If you are dining with Muslim friends, choose a halal-certified Peranakan-style restaurant or ask first, since pork runs through many classic recipes.
Questions people ask
What is the difference between Peranakan and Nyonya?
Peranakan describes the community; Nyonya refers to its women, and by extension the cooking they were known for. On menus the two words mean the same cuisine.
Is Peranakan food very spicy?
Some dishes are, many are not. Babi pongteh, itek tim, chap chye and kueh pie tee are mild; the heat usually comes from sambal you add yourself.
Is buah keluak safe?
Yes, once properly processed. The raw nut is poisonous, which is why it is treated for weeks before cooking; restaurants buy it prepared.
Where can I learn more about Peranakan culture?
The Peranakan Museum on Armenian Street covers the community’s history, dress and homes, and the Katong and Joo Chiat area is known for Peranakan shophouses and food.
Sources: Roots.sg (National Heritage Board), Peranakan cuisine in Singapore; Singapore Chinese Cultural Centre Culturepaedia, Peranakan Chinese food in Singapore, dishes and history. Recipes vary by family and restaurant. The Table explains; it does not endorse.
Read next: The Singapore Hawker Food Glossary · Halal, Muslim-Owned or No Pork No Lard · Free Museum Entry in Singapore · Back to The Table
For what’s worth it this week, with the bill shown, read The WahLiao Week.
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